Range:
The most important thing I take into consideration is where I will be hunting. Will I be hunting in jack pine in the UP, where most shots are under 100 yards? What about from a tree stand down a narrow hunting lane? What about a bean field in Michigan's thumb?
For close up shooting, a flat shooting rifle is of lesser importance. A 30-30 is an appropriate center-fire deer cartridge at this range, and your old lever-action will do you well. But keep optics in mind: your 20x sniper scope on your tactical .308 will be next to useless at close range. Best to use low power settings or better yet, irons.
If you are hunting long range--shots from 100-300+ yards, you need to carry something with a flatter trajectory. Long range center-fire cartridges that have worked best for me are (in no particular order):
- 30-06
- .270
- 7x57
Any of the 7mm or .30 magnums are excellent and I've had good luck with them, with a caveat: they must be loaded properly. More on that later. But again, keep optics at the forefront--that 4x target scope may not work if you're looking to shoot across a bean field.
In my experience, a .243 is the absolute minimum high-velocity deer cartridge if you want to ensure a clean kill. Many people rip on the 30-30 but the reality is this: they are well known for their excellent penetration and killing ability. (Let me make a bias clear: the Taylor KO scale is complete bunk in my opinion, and muzzle energy doesn't tell the whole story. Refer to this article for more information: http://www.chuckhawks.com/energy_transfer.htm)
Reality:
Another thing you want to take into consideration: is your rifle appropriate for hunting? Most military semi-autos, as fun as they are, are not designed for accurate shooting. They are instead designed to throw a lot of lead downrange in a hurry, and the emphasis is on reliability, not accuracy. Hence a FN FAL, a SKS, or a AK-47 are probably not appropriate for hunting. There are some military semi-autos that are known for outstanding accuracy; Venezuelan contract SAFNs come to mind. But most are simply not what you are looking for. With that said, many bolt-action mausers make excellent hunting rifles. Just remember that the sights are typically base-lined for 300 yards--making the point of impact difficult to judge in the heat of the moment. They may also be inappropriate for hunting unless modified with a scope or new sights (and don't do that if your rifle has collectible value!).
Reason:
Is your gun a safe queen? You don't want to be worrying about dinging up your rifle when it's time to make a shot. Leave your collectibles at home. The same goes for rifles of questionable reliability, or if they are unproven. If you have a semi-auto that you haven't had the time to get the gas adjusted just right, leave it be. There is nothing worse than losing the deer of a lifetime because your gun jammed, or you are distracted/worried about how your gun will perform or look like after a long day in the fields.
Reload:
To reload or not to reload: It's pretty simple here. If you choose to bring your reloads, make sure you have tested the particular formula thoroughly. Do not cut corners trimming, chamfering, or cleaning pockets. Precisely measure the powder for each round and properly seat the bullet. Most importantly, make sure the bullet is appropriate for hunting. I've made the mistake of hunting with a target bullet out of a high velocity magnum (300 RUM) that basically exploded when it hit the deer. It destroyed a lot of the primo meat and ruined the skin. I have witnessed similar situations where the bullet did not penetrate and the deer suffered. Chalk it up to ignorance, but it happened to me and has happened to many others. Throwing cheapo bullets into your hunting stash just isn't good practice--and it may turn out to be unethical.
To summarize:
When you are picking a rifle to bring on a hunt, think of the 4 Rs:
1. Range. "Will I be hunting close up? Don't need a 300 RUM for that. Will I be hunting long range? The ol' 30-30 won't do the trick."
2. Reality: "My 12-40 scope isn't going to work in jack pine. A .223 is better suited for woodchucks. A SKS may not be the best choice for power or reliability."
3. Reason: "Am I willing to damage this rifle in the pursuit of a deer?"
4. Reload: "I enjoy reloading...but do I really have the patience to create premium ammo tailored to my rifle? Do I know this handload will shoot exactly where I want it to? Should I just by factory loads for that rifle I want to bring but I hardly ever shoot?"
Be honest with yourself. If you don't have a good rifle to choose from, buy one or borrow one. There is nothing worse than losing a deer because your gun failed, you weren't prepared, or even worse: you wounded an animal because your gun is underpowered or you were distracted.
However, if you remember and adhere to these 4 Rs, the choice should be simple. And your chances of a successful hunt improve dramatically. Good luck!
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